It’s Elementary!

Westminster, London, UK
The Sherlock Holmes Museum

Entrance to the Sherlock Holmes Museum

When was the last time you went looking for a fictional place? 742 Evergreen Terrace, Springfield (Texas)? 1313 Mockingbird Lane, Mockingbird Heights (Midland, TX)? How about one of the most famous fictional addresses of all time – 221B Baker Street, London UK? For aficionados of Arthur Conan Doyle’s “Sherlock Holmes” novels, this address is akin to Mecca. In 1990, a former Victorian rooming house somewhere around 237 Baker Street in London was converted to the Sherlock Holmes Museum. The actual location where 221B Baker Street should be doesn’t exist, perhaps intentionally by Doyle so that people reading the stories back in the late 1880s wouldn’t flock to the address like crazed groupies and paparazzi (as they do now). The current location was officially given the address by the city of Westminster in London, which probably drives the mail carriers nuts. Getting there is half the fun, since many Londoners don’t believe it exists. Ask for directions and you may get, “There’s just a storefront there,” or “There is no 221B Baker Street.” The easiest way is by the Underground (Tube), taking the Hammersmith and City Line to the Baker Street stop. You’ll know you’re there when you see Sherlock Holmes profile baked into the tile lining the station.

One of the very realistic dioramas on the top floor

Approaching the building from across the street, you notice the large sign over a modern storefront reading “Sherlock Holmes Museum.” A wave of disappointment may wash over you since we’re talking about a bookstore and gift shop. As you get closer, several things start to fall in place. For starters, a blue circular metal plaque was attached to the front of the building, similar to historic plaques throughout the UK used to designate residences of famous people. In this instance, the plaque reads, “Sherlock Holmes, Consulting Detective, 1881 – 1904). To the left of the gift shop/bookstore is a black wooden door adorned with old-style lanterns and the number “221B” lettered on the transom window. Life has truly imitated art. Upon entering, you are instructed enter the gift shop through the inside door on the right to purchase your ticket; you still may anticipate being admitted into a warehouse-like back room with displays about Sherlock Holmes and Arthur Conan Doyle. When you are directed to go back out the shop door and go up the stairs to the right, you realize that the game is afoot.

On my visit I was met at the top of the stairs by a gentleman in Victorian clothing, complete with bow tie, white moustache and derby hat. In a proper English voice, he introduced himself as Doctor John Watson and gave the history of the apartment he shared with Mr. Holmes. The tour starts in the main room, featuring Holmes’ cluttered desk and stuffed easy chair. Around the room are objects that reference the stories, photographs, weapons, etc. The doctor informed me that Mr. Holmes was not home, but I was free to walk around the apartment. I wasn’t sure when it hit me that I had suspended disbelief – I was looking at Holmes’ desk, his pipe and his famous two-way hat, taking in the history of it all when a hammer hit me on the head and a sign popped out stating, “It’s fictional, you idiot – there was no Sherlock Holmes, the furnishings are antiques and your kindly Doctor Watson is an actor.” Take my word for it – it’s more fun when you suspend belief.

Doctor Watson and I share a laugh and a delusion

There are other floors to visit, all suitably furnished for the time period when Holmes would have lived there. No doubt this was relatively easy to accomplish since the site was a rooming house during the 1880s. The top floor features mannequins in dioramas depicting scenes from some of the Holmes stories. Although somewhat cheesy, having clips from films depicting the same scenes would detract from the period theme. Returning to the main room on the first level, you will most likely be invited to be photographed sitting in Holmes’ chair. The cheerful Doctor Watson doubted his famous roommate would mind if I wore his hat and held his meerschaum pipe, and so I invited him to join me in the photograph for authenticity.

Sherlock Holmes aficionados should not miss this, if for no other reason than to try to stump Watson (or Holmes if he happens to be “home”). Where else can you travel to a fictional universe and be home in time to microwave dinner?

The Sherlock Holmes Museum
221B Baker Street (237)
Westminster, London NW1 6XE, UK
GPS coordinates: 51°31’25.72″N 0° 9’30.49″W

See pictures from the Sherlock Holmes Museum in London UK