Back To The Future

A trippy look backward and forwards, 2011-2012

Great Scott, Marty, I thought 2011 would never end

Great Scott, Marty, I thought 2011 would never end

I got a haircut last night; nothing drastic like a Mr. T Mandinka or a Vanilla Ice high top fade, just a shorter version of what I typically wear. This was as much symbolic as it was maintenance – I looked on it as shedding the dead ends, the outgrowth gone to the ages. It might as well have been the trimmings of the old year hitting the barber shop floor. For the most part, the events that shaped 2011 (both locally and globally) have made us stronger individually and yet seem to have driven us farther apart in our ideologies, our tastes and our sense of humanity.

Site of the first Howard Johnson's in Quincy MA

Site of the first Howard Johnson's in Quincy MA

On a personal level, 2011 held less travel for me than in years gone by. By year’s end I managed to return to Boston after a nearly two year absence. The visits back to the land of my formative years are always bittersweet; while I love to see my family and friends I’ve known for decades, I always have a difficult time having to return to the West Coast. On the trip I took in many of the places I’ve loved for years (including Putnam Pantry in Danvers and Boston’s famous Union Oyster House), but also realized places that were so close most of my life and yet undiscovered such as the original Dunkin’ Donuts location in Quincy and Kane’s Donuts in Saugus. The promise of a road trip to see my brother in western New Jersey afforded me the opportunity to revisit loved break points (Rein’s Deli in Vernon, Connecticut); experience bucket list locations such as Louis’ Lunch in New Haven, Connecticut, Rutt’s Hut in Clifton, New Jersey; and, return to the place of my birth, Easton, Pennsylvania. What astounds me about living in California is that most natives can barely comprehend a 6-hour drive (equivalent to the quickest route by car from Los Angeles to San Francisco) that can take you through 7 states back East. Even my visit to my brother was a cultural experience in that he introduced me to the social and culinary taste delight of raclette in his home that evening with a visit to one of New Jersey’s legendary diners for breakfast.

Stumptown Coffee Roasters' legendary coffee

Stumptown Coffee Roasters' legendary coffee

I made several trips to Portland, Oregon, a city I am falling in love with as it seems to incorporate all the things I love about New England and Austin, Texas, the two places where I’ve spent most of my adult life. Portland is a quirky city that proudly displays its eccentricities on its sleeve, and an amazing food town. Road trippers will also love Portland for its larger-than -life roadside attractions such as Harvey the Rabbit, Paul Bunyan and the largest loaf of bread and pair of sneakers you’re likely to see in your lifetime. One of my favorite spots is actually smaller-than-life – Mill Ends City Park, the world’s smallest park. From the food carts (many of which pre-date L.A.’s gourmet food trucks) to the Church of Elvis, from the Portlandia sculpture to the former White Stag (now Portland, Oregon) sign over Old Town, Stumptown Coffee to Voodoo Donuts, Portland is going to be a place I look forward to returning to in 2012.

Charleston, SC's historic Old City Market

Charleston, SC's historic Old City Market

My trip to Charleston will undoubtedly be the jewel in the crown of my lifetime travel achievements as visiting South Carolina completed my lifelong goal of visiting all 50 states. Although the city holds on a little too tight to its Confederacy leanings (it was, after all, where the Civil War started and where South Carolina became the first state to leave the union), the people are warm and bursting with legendary Southern hospitality. Charleston is a colonial town, similar to Boston, where the difference lies in its landscape – the tallest buildings in Charleston are the steeples of its historic churches. Visits to Fort Sumter, the Slave Mart and to see the recovered H.L. Hunley submersible were among a few of the historic sites I visited, and the amazing low country cuisine almost defies description. I enjoyed meals at Ernie’s, Gullah Cuisine Lowcountry Restaurant, Jack’s Cosmic Dogs, Hominy Grill and 82 Queen (to name but a few) that will always find a warm place in my heart and my stomach.

The Dali Museum in St. Petersburg FL

The Dali Museum in St. Petersburg FL

No trip is ever complete without a road trip, and my South Carolina adventure included a drive to the Tampa, Florida area to visit my daughter and fellow adventurer, Alie. After a brief stop in Savannah, Georgia to see the church where “Jingle Bells” was supposed to have been written and Chippewa Square’s imaginary Forrest Gump bus stop, I went on a boiled peanut-fueled adventure that included St. Petersburg’s Dali Museum, South Pasadena’s Ted Peter’s Famous Smoked Fish, Tampa’s world’s largest bowling pin and the Cuban-tinged downtown of Ybor City.  Prior to flying home, I made an impromptu stop at the Disney-meets-trailer park version of Mexicana known as South of the Border just across the North Carolina state line.

A giant bi bim bap in the making at the L.A. Street Food Fest

A giant bi bim bap in the making at the L.A. Street Food Fest

Back in Los Angeles, I discovered new restaurants and said goodbye to places I have visited; 2011 marked a farewell to Haldi Root, Angeli Caffe, The Manila Machine (Filipino gourmet food truck), Papoo’s Hot Dog Show and moko (among others), but opened my eyes to wonderfully accessible purveyors of delightful cuisine including King’s Row Gastropub, Larry’s, M.B. Post, Urbano Pizza Bar, Roxolana and a cast of characters to huge to mention. Rock star chef Ludo Lefebvre continued his legendary Ludo Bites popups while wunderkind Michael Voltaggio opened ink. and gourmet sandwich shop ink.sack, but I’ve decided to let the chef groupies cover the spots that are accessible to the wealthy or very lucky. My top celebrity chef moment had to be attending a media dinner at WP24 when Wolfgang Puck himself joined the group and gave us a tour of his kitchen. It was hard to continue to enjoy 5-star dining after taking a Sunday walk through Occupy L.A.‘s encampment; the experience has given me a profound appreciation for what I’ve been privileged to experience and will strive to cover more sites and dining locations in 2012 that are able to be enjoyed by everyone. I attended several of The Minty‘s food crawls in and around Los Angeles, and anticipate participating more in the new year, including her upcoming beef uterus crawl (one of the few bovine body parts I haven’t eaten yet).

Wayside Cafe's fried avocados at the Fallbrook Avocado Festival

Wayside Cafe's fried avocados at the Fallbrook Avocado Festival

2011 was a good year for festivals including three of the regional county fairs, a visit to the original Renaissance Pleasure Faire, the famous Fallbrook Avocado and Santa Maria Menudo Festivals and amazing Italian, Danish, Mongolian and Anatolian festivals. The beauty of living is a state the size of California is that there are literally hundreds of festivals statewide, and I feel as if I’ve only scratched the surface. I plan to make it a goal to attend next year’s Coarsegold Tarantula Festival, even after being informed that there will be none of the hairy arachnids on the menu.

Hot dogs sautéed in cabernet sauvignon over brie and topped with seaweed

Hot dogs sautéed in cabernet sauvignon over brie and topped with seaweed

This past year saw me finding creative ways to prepare and cook dishes that I wouldn’t be able to get in a restaurant (pig penis on a stick and grunion rings come to mind immediately). I ended the year savoring shark’s fin soup, a dish whose days are numbered in California, but this year I hope to visit other states to find dishes on the California no-fly list: bear, horse, cuy, and squirrel, to name a few. Foie gras (at least goose liver pate made using the process of funneling grain down a waterfowl’s gut) is on its way out; a few rock star chefs are up in arms about the ban, blatantly announcing that they plan to defy it. Hopefully said chefs either find what the state determines to be a humane method of making foie gras or move on to making different dishes – surely they’re not one-trick ponies; after all, they’ve had about 8 years since California State Senate Bill 1520 passed to prepare. Personally, I’ve enjoyed it previously and won’t terribly miss it, but know sampling it again only requires a long drive or plane ticket if the desire is that strong. We could debate all day whether or not the practice is cruel; on one hand, you have people like Anthony Bourdain visiting a farm where he narrates how natural and painless the process is – on the other hand I personally watched Eddie Lin down three huge bowls of pho in February and when he could finally speak he swore in severe pain never to attempt that kind of competitive eating again.

Hanukkah lunch with foodie friends at Langer's Delicatessen in Los Angeles

Hanukkah lunch with foodie friends at Langer's Delicatessen in Los Angeles

In terms of the writing, I will continue to update both the web site and the Facebook page (a great deal of the content has been and will continue to be exclusive to each). I will welcome guest bloggers, strive to do more podcasts and video and vary the content to include themed articles (locations from a particular movie, etc.), music events and interviews and occasional commentary. I look forwarded to meeting new people in my adventures and have solidified friendships with many of the foodies, bloggers, restaurateurs and public relations folk that I’ve had the pleasure to share my experiences with. Unfortunately, there are still some in the community that choose not to accept my outstretched hand in friendship. To these people I hold no animosity; in some cases I feel sympathy (not empathy) for them as I wonder if they are as lonely and miserable as their demeanors suggest. That having been said, I will be cleaning house in 2012, and this includes dusting out the people I rarely communicate with on Twitter, Foursquare and Facebook who essentially don’t wish to communicate with me anyway. If you are in this group, my 2012 wish for you is that you open up your hearts and let sunshine in – with the current state of affairs in our country and the overwhelming atmosphere of divisiveness, separatism, greed and lack of empathy for our fellow human beings, we will learn to get along as a people or we will perish. For those I continue to follow or friend, please do me and your other followers a big favor – I realize you are limited to 140 characters, but please try to be a little more descriptive in your posts/tweets. While a post that simply says, “Agreed” or “That sounds delicious” may mean something to you and the person you’re targeting, it means absolutely nothing to the rest of us and becomes spam – that’s what DMs are for.

Honey persimmon pie from Fruit & Flour at Artisanal LA's 2011 Holiday Pop-Up

Honey persimmon pie from Fruit & Flour at Artisanal LA's 2011 Holiday Pop-Up

Finally, since we all have an opportunity to wipe the slate clean and start over, I ask from you what I promise to provide in 2012 and onward – honesty. If I meet you at an event, a restaurant, festival, etc., please don’t tell me you’ll keep in touch if that’s the farthest thing from your mind. If we discuss collaboration and you have no intention of working with me, tell me up front. In 2011, I spoke to no fewer than 3 Peruvian chefs who took my card and said they’d let me know where cuy was available in the L.A. area – I have heard from none. I discussed creating the historic oyster ice cream with several people who make ice cream who remarked that it sounded like a great idea, but one that apparently died on the vine. I assure you, I will not think less of you as a person; in fact I will probably have a higher respect for you for being honest. Friendship, like respect, is earned and I hope to earn both from those of you whom I do not currently enjoy either with; however it is not an expectation or requirement for us to work together. To those of you who read Trippy Food, I offer my thanks and hope you find it enjoyable; please feel free to comment or write to me at [email protected]. To those who do not, I invite you to share my experiences, but I bear no ill will if you feel for some reason that you can’t. Either way, I wish you all the best in 2011 and hope to see you on the road.

Val

GALLERY: See images from Val’s’ travels and culinary experiences in 2011

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Where There’s Smoke, There’s Fish

Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish
South Pasadena, Florida

The specialty at Ted Peters - smoked mullet

The specialty at Ted Peters - smoked mullet

The words “Ted Peters” don’t readily roll off the tongue when asked to name a renowned destination for seafood; “smoked fish” is probably not one’s first guess for a culinary treatment to base a restaurant on – so what gives Pasadena, Florida’s Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish the gumption to bestow upon themselves such a boastful title? It certainly isn’t the location; Ted Peters isn’t on the beach or on some seafood-laden stretch of busy highway. It’s not the architecture or the decor; with the roll-up corrugated garage doors down, the “outdoor” dining area looks like an old storage facility furnished with picnic tables and the counter and walls are festooned with hand painted (or handwritten) signs describing the menu items. What gives the late Mr. Peters bragging rights is the popularity of their simple yet astoundingly delicious menu of smoked fish which went from word-of-mouth after their 1951 opening to being featured on the Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives as well as being recommended on the Travel Channel’s web site.

This is the restaurant, not a storage facility

This is the restaurant, not a storage facility

The concept is simple – prepare and serve thick slabs of fish smoked in-house in a rustic, no-frills, laid-back atmosphere. For years Ted Peters smoked only Spanish mackerel and their specialty, the mullet. You’re not to be faulted if you heard “mullet” and imagined the “business in the front, party in the back” hairstyle popularized by cultural icons such as MacGyver and Billy Ray Cyrus, as the mullet is not likely to be the Catch of the Day at Le Grand Véfour. The fish is typically regarded as a garbage-eater and viewed with disdain by exclusive high-end eateries, but has been an important food source for millennia. If the thought of eating aquatic sanitation engineers such as the carp or catfish bother you, you may have an aversion to giving the mullet a try, but the smoking process takes a disreputable denizen of the deep and kicks it about five rungs up the ladder of piscatorial cuisine.

Ted Peters' smoked salmon

Ted Peters' smoked salmon

The more aesthetically pleasing structure set apart from the dining shed is the smokehouse, which also serves as a to-go only counter. According to the restaurant, the fish is placed raw over racks in the smokehouse suspended above burning local red oak for 4 to 6 hours. Since most people wouldn’t recognize a mullet if they were slapped upside the head with one, we’ll talk about the metamorphosis that takes place to its upscale cousin, the salmon so that you can appreciate the miraculous culinary transformation. What arrives at your table on well-worn plastic ware bears little similarity to the familiar pinkish-orange smoked salmon you might find prominently displayed on your local deli counter or in the glass case at a seafood market. The flesh takes on a dull, tobacco-brown color almost looking like the wood used to smoke it. A light press of a fork side is enough to reveal that what appears to be fuel is actually moist and tender; as you bring the impaled flesh up to your eager mouth, the aroma of wood smoke permeates the nostrils. As the fish dissolves on the tongue, the woody flavor complements the natural taste of the fish, neither overpowering each other in a cacophony of flavors.

The smokehouse where you can also order to go

The smokehouse where you can also order to go

Getting back to our poor neglected outcast mullet, since this may be your first experience with the fish you may never want to order it any other way. Especially in comparison to the salmon in a side-by-side taste test, the mullet is a fish of a different color. The meat is lighter and flaky, but the unique flavor finds its way through the dense smoke to remind you that you’re swimming down a less-traveled path. Describing subtleties in the differences in taste between fishes can be a difficult-to-acquire skill (much like being a wine connoisseur), but even the layman pescatorian will ask himself what took him so long to enjoy the mullet.

Of all the posted signs, "CASH ONLY" is most important

Of all the posted signs, "CASH ONLY" is most important

Perhaps it simply a result of Florida being more laid-back than other American geographic regions, but patience is in order at Ted Peters. It seems to take some time before someone comes around to answer questions you have about the menu; more time ticks away between getting utensils, drinks, and finally your selection. The staff is not rude, they just seem to take the day in stride – a visit to Ted Peters is best executed outside of regular working hours. The prices are reasonably moderate, probably leaning towards expensive when considering the ambience and it is cash only so come prepared. The lunch plate does not come with their trademark German potato salad, but the fish is the main event and with the generous portion you probably won’t miss it.

Ted Peter’s smoked fish spread sandwich is popular, but if you’ve never eaten mullet before I recommend getting just the plain fish unadulterated by bread or the additives to the spread. Besides the fish, there are other menu items such as Manhattan clam chowder (the red one), hamburgers, cheeseburgers and hot dogs, but if that’s your fare of choice you have no business in a restaurant called Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish, and quite frankly you can probably find a cheaper, better burger elsewhere. A visit to Ted Peters is not to be missed, and it may be one of the few times in your life when you won’t regret requesting, “I’d like a mullet, please.”

Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish
1350 Pasadena Avenue South
South Pasadena, FL 33707
GPS Coordinates: 27°45’21.62″N 82°44’13.19″W

GALLERY: See images from Val and Alie’s visit to Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish for the mullet and salmon in South Pasadena, Florida

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Waiter, This Soup Is Old

Oldest Restaurant in the World
Sobrino de Botín, Madrid, Spain

Main entrance to the world's oldest restaurant

Main entrance to the world's oldest restaurant

We often sit in slack-jawed wonder when our favorite bistro goes belly-up in less than a year, or when a popular gourmet food truck disappears off the road into the golden sunset, so imagine the kind of quality and service you’d have to deliver in order to get patrons to come back repeatedly for nearly 300 years. Madrid’s
Sobrino de Botín is the epitome of that spirit, and one visit to the world’s oldest restaurant (according to Guinness Book of World Records) is all it takes to demonstrate what made it one of Ernest Hemmingway’s favorites. The restaurant was originally established in 1725 as Casa Botín by James Botín, who passed it in to his nephew upon moving on to the great Zagat guide in the sky (thus the current name, Sobrino de Botín – Botín’s Nephew). The restaurant has been so popular through the centuries that it has been mentioned in Spanish and English literature by such notables as F. Scott Fitzgerald, John Dos Passos and the aforementioned Mr. Hemingway; a young Francisco José de Goya waited tables at Botín well before his stint as painter to the Spanish Crown.

One of the dining rooms on the upper floor

One of the dining rooms on the upper floor

Sobrino de Botín is located just steps below Madrid’s Plaza Mayor; in addition to being the oldest restaurant in the world, it also remains one of the most popular. The crowd is lighter at lunchtime, but it’s best to arrive prior to the restaurant opening – you may have to wait past stated opening hours to get in, but you can probably cut them some slack since they literally have all the time in the world. The interior is a sprawling collection of rooms spanning four floors (including the brick-ceiling basement); you’ll want to explore, but you’d be best advised to wait until after your meal. Each dining room has its own sense of flavor and style, but all reflect the restaurant’s long lineage; if you can swing it, the rooms on the upper floors allow more natural light in, but there’s something to be said for eating in a room that looks like a taller and better lit version of Liverpool’s Cavern Club.

These bottles may be younger than they look

These bottles may be younger than they look

The Spanish know a thing or two about pork – Iberian ham appears on almost every menu in the city and there’s even a shop called Museo de Jamón devoted solely to Porky’s hindquarters. There are a variety of ham appetizers on the menu, but these aren’t the big moist chunks of pork you’re used to seeing on the holiday table; think prosciutto. Botín’s specialties are cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig) and cordero asado (roast lamb) and unless you want to try a variety of dishes from the menu, the perfect dining experience is to stick with the House Menu. For about 40 Euro you’ll enjoy a bowl of soup, the cochinillo asado, bread, a beer, wine or mineral water and dessert; although the baby eels are tempting, you’d better be prepared to shell out close to $150 for a dish of the tiny, ropy fish. Keep in mind that although nominal, when ordering off the regular menu as in most of Europe you’ll be charged extra for items such as bread and butter.

Sobrino de Botín's specialty - roast suckling pig

Sobrino de Botín's specialty - roast suckling pig

The soup is seasonal – if you time your visit right you may have the opportunity to try their sopa de ajo, which features egg poached in chicken broth and garlic, another Botín specialty; our dinner came with a crisp, rich and flavorful gazpacho. The suckling pig is roasted in the same oven (the horno de asar listed on the sign on the front of the restaurant) that’s been used since 1725; your waiter will bring a segment to the table in a clay dish and separate the meat for you. The pork is incredibly moist, still sheathed in a crackly chicharrón jacket. The contrast of the hot, tender pork with the crunchiness of the skin is heaven in your mouth – it’s easy to see why Botín is renowned for its cochinillo asado, so good it has been mentioned in the final chapter of Hemmingway’s “The Sun Also Rises”.

Roasting suckling pig in the original 1725 oven

Roasting suckling pig in the original 1725 oven

After your meal you’ll want to explore the premises – the staff is extremely accommodating and will give you access to literally every square inch of the restaurant. The closet-sized kitchen where the stone roasting oven is housed is manned by a single chef who presides over shelves filled with piglets peering over clay dishes with lifeless eyes. Even though the chef scrambles to fill orders for the succulent hogs, he’ll still gladly answer any question you have and allow you to watch to your heart’s content while he stuffs Babe into the inferno on the end of a pizza peel.

Dining in Sobrino de Botín's cavern-like basement

Dining in Sobrino de Botín's cavern-like basement

A visit to the wine cellar is a must, and I mean that in more ways than one. Remember, the restaurant was established back when participants in America’s Revolutionary War were still in cloth diapers, so don’t be expecting some steel-and-glass, climate-controlled, air-sealed chamber for wine storage. Passing through an iron gate that probably hasn’t been locked in decades you arrive in the bowels of the 17th century structure to find iron or wooden wine racks free-standing on dust-caked tile floors. The labels on many of the bottles are covered with such a thick layer of age that they are unreadable, and although the dust sits heavy on the racks, some of the bottles look suspiciously modern.

The sense of hospitality, attentiveness, quality of the food and moderate prices for a restaurant with such a lofty pedigree all clearly define Sobrino de Botín’s staying power and what makes it one of the world’s prime culinary destinations. The only drawback as you leave to find one of the area’s famed flamenco tablaos and a pitcher of sangria is you may just feel a little bit older.

Sobrino de Botín
Calle de los Cuchilleros 17
28005 Madrid, Spain
GPS Coordinates: 40°24’51.13″N 3°42’28.68″W

GALLERY: See images from Val’s visit to Sobrino de Botín in Madrid, Spain (world’s oldest restaurant)

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The Oysters Are Coming! The Oysters Are Coming!

Oldest Restaurant in the U.S.
Union Oyster House, Boston, Massachusetts

Find the brick lobster on the front of Boston's Union Oyster House

Find the brick lobster on the front of Boston's Union Oyster House

Boston, Massachusetts is a city rich with history, including laying claim to being the birthplace of the American Revolution; the signal to riders to warn of British occupation, the Boston Tea Party and the Boston Massacre all took place in Boston and culminated in America’s independence. Millions of visitors to Boston walk The Freedom Trail (the red brick line that winds from Boston Common to the U.S.S. Constitution in Charlestown’s Navy Yards) in order to experience first-hand historic sites with ties to the Revolution. As the red brick road traverses Union Street between Faneuil Hall and Paul Revere’s house in the North End, it briefly passes at the doorstep of a site with its own historical significance: The Union Oyster House. The building that houses America’s oldest restaurant was standing in its current location well before the start of the revolution in the 1770s but didn’t serve as a restaurant until 1826.

The Union Bar at Union Oyster House

The Union Bar at Union Oyster House

It’s difficult to say how many famous historical figures passed through Union Oyster House’s tiny wooden doors – perhaps Alexander Graham Bell called ahead with his order from his nearby workshop; Oliver Wendell Holmes may have judged their filet of sole strictly on its own merit. For certain Daniel Webster had a regular place at the original wooden oyster bar where fresh shellfish is shucked on demand; his meal of choice consisted of multiple servings of a half dozen oysters washed down with a brandy and water. The Kennedys were also known to frequent the restaurant – John F. preferred a quiet booth on the second floor that now is officially designated as “The Kennedy Booth”.

The oyster bar, fully stocked and ready to rock

The oyster bar, fully stocked and ready to rock

Over the years the restaurant expanded up through the upper floors and into the adjacent property – the staff is more than happy to entertain your desire to have a look around, but with all the interconnected rooms that make you feel like you’re making your way through a sea shanty mansion you might want to leave a trail of oyster crackers to find your way back. Each area of the restaurant has its own unique, historic charm, including the rooms on the upper floors (complete with fireplaces and seriously antique furnishings) that truly make you feel as if you’re dining in a colonial home.

If you don’t manage to score The Kennedy Booth, or you’re traveling on your own, consider plunking yourself down at the oyster bar just inside the front entrance – it’s probably the most entertaining area in the restaurant. For starters, the bar area is backed by Union Oyster House’s front street-level windows, meaning you’re likely to see the faces of dozens of Freedom Trail hikers peering in to catch a glimpse of the seafood on ice. Shellfish that arrives daily is shucked at the same wooden half-circle bar where the honorable Mr. Webster got his oyster on; for authenticity and freshness I recommend getting the local mollusks – on my visit I asked for a half dozen of local oysters, and although I couldn’t tell the difference between the Wellfleet and Cape Cod oysters by the shell, taste was another story. The shuckers on duty looked like they stepped right out of a Herman Melville novel, and although they were friendly and informative, they didn’t mess around when it came to the oysters. Armed with oyster knives that looked like prison shanks, the shuckers force the blade in between what is presumably the oyster’s hind quarters and then with a pile-driving blow, smash the handle into a stone block that quite possibly started its life as one of the cobblestones that pave Marshall Street outside.

Union Oyster House's famous clam chowder

Union Oyster House's famous clam chowder

The oyster bar is lined with everything you might possibly wish to disguise the taste of the oyster with – lemons, horseradish, cocktail sauce, Tabasco – but you’ll never be able to judge the quality of the shellfish unless you savor them au naturel. The Wellfleets had a sweeter taste than the Cape Cod, but the latter seemed to have firmer, meatier “flesh”; both had ample enough amounts of chilled brine to recall their cold aquatic origins; neither had the slightest funky ammonia smell or taste present with poor quality seafood. The Grail Knights would have smiled upon me with great favor knowing that I chose wisely.

I’m somewhat on the fence about the clam chowder – while the soup was laden with thick, tender chunks of clam meat and perfectly cooked potato cubes it was also obvious that they used a thickener (such as flour or corn starch). While chowder purists will argue that sans thickener you’re dealing with clam soup, I prefer it on the thinner side. The chowder was still hot and delicious, creamy and satisfying and as good a bowl as you’d expect to find anywhere in New England. Garnishing your chowder can get out of hand, and if your modus operandi results in a bowl of “chowdah with buttah, black peppah and some oystah crackahs”, well, the oyster bar has you covered there as well.

Choosing a restaurant by location can be a disappointment – canyon views, revolving towers and “boat in” establishments do not always equate with quality food at a moderate cost, but at Union Oyster House the sense of history does not overshadow the cuisine. I try not to miss the Union Oyster House each time I return to Boston – it’s a memorable experience from the first sip of Samuel Adams to putting your John Hancock on the bill.

Union Oyster House
41 Union St
Boston, MA 02108
GPS Coordinates: 42°21’40.45″N 71° 3’25.10″W

GALLERY: See images from Val’s visit to Boston’s historic Union Oyster House

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Who Cut The Cheese?

Raclette, Switzerland and France

A half-wheel of raclette cheese

A half-wheel of raclette cheese

For millennia, cheese has been a part of almost every culture on earth capable of extracting milk from mammals in order to extend its shelf life. While some softer cheeses are fragile and are consumable for only a few hours, many develop thick rinds that allow them to be kept for longer periods of time. Of the latter, some of the cheeses from Switzerland and France develop a rind thick enough to allow them to be served in a style known as raclette (from the French word for scraping); several varieties of these cheeses are also called Raclette, including the French Tomme de Savoie.
For the cheese to be used for raclette it needs to be sturdy enough to withstand falling apart when heat is applied; this process melts the interior while leaving the rind intact. In days gone by, half-wheels would be placed by an open fire to liquefy the cheese – the wheel is then tilted and the melt is scraped out with a knife and onto dried meats, potatoes, bread and other easy-to-preserve items in a reverse process that is best described as “cheese fondon’t”. As the cheese cools, it solidifies on the foodstuffs it has been applied to.

Dual raclette grills working overtime

Dual raclette grills working overtime

Thanks to modern science, there’s no need to lug that wheel of cheese up the side of a mountain only to have your rabbit fur hat catch fire causing you to do a triple gainer into a snow bank (unless you’re into that sort of thing); Swissmar, West Bend, Cuisinart and a bushel of other manufacturers make raclette grills for up to 8 people – some of these are even available at Wal-Mart, meaning that your grill may end up costing less than the cheese. Most raclette grills are electric; the flat top is used for grilling meats while the cheese, cut into slices, is melted in small trays that are placed underneath.

Assorted cheese-draped food for raclette

Assorted cheese-draped food for raclette

Don’t underestimate the value of making your guests work for their food at your next holiday party; there’s the extra added benefit of keeping them occupied when conversation lags and giving them something to talk about when they leave. Raclette is an age-old tradition that has been updated to be incorporated into whatever festivities you happen to be celebrating allowing you to be the big cheese this holiday season.

GALLERY: See images of raclette cheese for sale and in action

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