Feeling Hot, Hot, Hot

17th Annual Oxnard Salsa Festival

Oxnard, California

The stage and hopping dance floor at the Oxnard Salsa Festival

The stage and hopping dance floor at the Oxnard Salsa Festival

Herb likes spicy food, but isn’t much into dancing; his girlfriend Rosemary likes Latin music and goes out cutting the rug every chance she gets. Is there any chance for this relationship? You bet! Send them both to Oxnard, California’s annual Salsa Festival, now in its smash 17th year. It’s a fiery food festival and dance celebration centered on both meanings of the term “salsa”. The quiet coastal city of Oxnard heats up every July as downtown’s Plaza Park and the surrounding area is transformed in to a Latin block party of epic proportions. I was expecting a DJ to be playing Latin music, or one of the local stations blasting its music through a few stacks of speakers, but the event featured live Latin bands, and damned fine ones to boot. A wooden parquet floor was laid out in front of the concert stage, and it was difficult to carve out an area where you could get down without crushing someone’s toes. The dance floor was cordoned off, and just as many people were sitting outside the area enjoying the music. To the left of the stage was a beer garden and to the right a wine tasting tent; despite the free-flowing alcohol, people were well behaved, perhaps because it’s hard to start trouble when you’re having fun. There were several rows of tents selling the typical goods you expect to see at California festivals, but being that this is a salsa festival there was also a variety of vendors selling hot sauce, salsas and even pepper plants. One booth was devoted to the bhut jolokia pepper of India, commonly referred to by Westerners as the ghost chili. Guinness Book of World’s Records recognizes this bad boy as the world’s hottest pepper; for reference, the fiery habanero weighs in at around 300,000 scovile units (denoting the amount of capsaicin, the chemical compound that causes that wonderful burning sensation). The ghost chili boasts a scovile unit rating of over one million, making it a force to be reckoned with on both the input and output phases of consumption. The vendor, Red Hot Foods, offered four levels of hot sauce, with the “milder” versions toned down with that wimpy habanero. Level 4 with the black label is all bhut jolokia, baby, and ready to lay waste to all it comes in contact with. I decided to try some, and when asked which level I wanted, well, I always bet on black. The woman at the booth poured about a quarter of a teaspoon on a tortilla chip, which I subsequently popped into my mouth and let rest on my tongue until the chip started to dissolve. The ensuing chaos was reminiscent of the scene in the movie Alien when the crew of the Nostromo discovers the aliens’ blood to be highly acidic, burning through several decks of the ship. As the chip burned away I could taste the flavor of the pepper, until I swore I could smell the smoke of searing flesh. The sauce burned a hole through my tongue and then started corroding my lower jaw, opening a hole in my neck where the dripping mix of fiery bhut jolokia and liquefied flesh dripped onto the pavement, burning a hole into the asphalt. It felt like that, anyway.

The chicken mole tamale from El Oaxaco

The chicken mole tamale from El Oaxaco

Claudia and I decided to take a break and find some coffee with lots of cream to extinguish the pain, sitting in front of the La Costeña truck. This massive vehicle almost qualifies as a food truck, but they were having people play spin the wheel to win cans and jars of peppery foods available in most area grocery stores; it didn’t seem like any of that real estate was used to cook or prepare any food. Since food seemed like a good idea, we walked over to the crescent that lined the curb on the 5th Street side of the park where the food vendors set up shop. Claudia decided on a couple of carne asada tacos, which looked mighty tasty, but I was in the mood for something a little more exotic. One vendor was selling “authentic English-style fish and chips”; what they were doing at a salsa festival was anybody’s guess. El Oaxaco had a banner advertising that they had chapulines, and since I hadn’t had my USDA daily requirement of grasshoppers, I decided to try theirs. I was informed that they didn’t have them at the booth, but that their restaurant was across the street and I could order them there. Since I was in the mood for eating a fuera (the Spanish equivalent of al fresco) I ordered a chicken mole tamale. The tamale appeared to be wrapped in about ten feet of banana leaf, but every layer pulled back revealed more and more of the rich, spicy tamale. Rather than being smothered in mole, it was mixed inside the tamale, creating a different taste sensation than I am accustomed to, but it was delicious nonetheless.

Purveyors of the evil ghost chili

Purveyors of the evil ghost chili

A circus-sized tent housed the salsa tasting area. The concept was simple; each person to enter the tent was given a bag of tortilla chips and10 tickets that were traded to the salsa chefs in exchange for a sample cup of their best. Each vendor’s tickets would be counted at the end of the event, and the one with the most tickets would be declared the winner. With almost 75 salsas to choose from, trying only 10 was going to be difficult, but some of them were eliminated relatively easily on looks alone. Anything that looked like it came out of a jar of Pace or was served on the side at El Torito was 86ed right off the bat (I soon discovered that El Torito actually had an entry in the contest). Some people may be surprised by my decision to sample the salsa from Vallarta, a large ethnic grocery store chain in the Los Angeles area. As anyone who shops at Vallarta regularly will confirm, their freshly made salsas and pico de gallo are outstanding, and their offerings at the festival were no exception. I particularly liked Chef Gerard and Chuck’s Green Stuff Salsa – their hot variety had a spicy kick without being painful, but it absolutely tasted fresh. It was easy to taste the individual ingredients, and the salsa verde had a nice, healthy green color to it. I’d have to say that my favorite was the Bacon Hot Sauce. On first taste, there’s the familiar burn and flavor from the peppers, but then out of nowhere you’re smacked in the back of the head with a slab of bacon (figuratively, of course). The smoky pork flavor stays through the finish, and I told self-proclaimed Chief Bacon Officer Peter Fishman that although I loved the flavor, I wasn’t sure what it would complement – he answered with a single word: eggs. Eggs. I have no idea why I hadn’t thought of that but once he had mentioned it I wondered how eggs had gone for so long without it. I didn’t detect bits of bacon in the sauce, but Fishman explained that they use bacon flavoring; I’m not sure how they extract that, but I just thank my lucky stars that somebody does. The Oxnard Salsa Festival had their own three official salsas, and I decided to try the mild, mango tango. It was only slightly spicy, with more than typical sweetness (obviously from the mango). It seemed like it might be a good topping for a chicken dish, but didn’t really do much for me straight out of the bowl.

The Salsa Festival is as alive and kicking as the fiery salsas and foods being dished up and the hot Latin music that packs the dance floor; it may even make you forget about the summer heat. You can go alone, or bring your significant other – it’s sure to add some spice to your relationship.

The Annual Oxnard Salsa Festival
Plaza Park
Oxnard, CA 93030 (5th Street between B and C Streets)
GPS Coordinates:  34°11’51.46″N 119°10’49.81″W

GALLERY: See images of Val’s visit to the 2010 Oxnard Salsa Festival

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Where The Streets Have No Name

LA Street Food Fest

The Rose Bowl, Pasadena, California

The Rose Bowl becomes the Meat and Veggie Bowl

The Rose Bowl becomes the Meat and Veggie Bowl

In terms of U.S. cities, L. A. has one of the largest street food cultures, made popular by the ubiquitous taco trucks and expanded by the somewhat recent gourmet food truck phenomenon. Besides the vehicular street vendors, there are also an army of push cart and folding table vendors, as well as fledgling restaurants springing forth from aspiring chef’s homes and spilling out on to the sidewalks and streets of L.A. The problem these days isn’t how to find something to eat, but how to select a single vendor to satisfy the munchies. Shawna Dawson and Sonja Rasula aspired to bring a seemingly random collection of these vendors together in one place, and to raise money for charity to boot. Dawson and Rasula are co-founders of L.A. Street Food Fest, which held its second extravaganza recently in Pasadena’s fabled Rose Bowl. Before you conjure up images of Kogi’s tires ripping up the finely manicured gridiron, the trucks were parked just outside the stadium with tented booths lined up on either side of the field. Food truck vendors cohabitated with restaurants, pushcarts, taco shacks and caterers essentially leveling the playing field to place the focus on the food, not the delivery system. Truck operators ran (literally) through the tunnels to their trucks where the food was being prepared, while other vendors cooked at the back of their booths or at makeshift kitchens in the bowels of the stadium.

Chuy Tovar (Arandas Imports), Alex Chu (Dim Sum Truck) and Javier Cabral (Teenage Glutster)

Chuy Tovar (Arandas Imports), Alex Chu (Dim Sum Truck) and Javier Cabral (Teenage Glutster)

In the open sun, the food wasn’t the only thing baking, broiling and frying – at the end of the field were two makeshift biergartens where Singha cooled off diners with one of the few cold beverages available (the only water available was from the fountains outside the restrooms). Along the walkway on the second tier, various food vendors set up shop sandwiching in tequila bottlers offering tastings in half-sized shots. A section outside to the right of the stadium featured vendors of non-food items and a small (but very popular) section where ice cream appeared to be the only thing actually served out of trucks. Attendees holding VIP tickets were granted access to the event at 4 PM before the teeming masses yearning to eat, yet the lines continued to grow, even before the 6 PM general admission crowd swarmed in. As if this amazing variety of unique and delicious food wasn’t enough, a DJ spun music to dine by followed by bands Warpaint and The Deadly Syndrome (who provided live music on a concert stage at the end of the field). Throughout the event, the stadium’s Diamond Vision screens were displaying tweets sent to @LAfoodfest, utilizing the system that put many of the food trucks on the map to the instant gratification of the iPhone-laden vendors and patrons.

The Dogzilla - amazing or what?

The Dogzilla - amazing or what?

Although it would be impossible to represent all the great eateries, carts and trucks, this giant tailgate party on the field had so many vendors to choose from that even Takeru Kobayashi wouldn’t be able to keep up. Most vendors provided smaller-sized samples of the two or three items that represented the best of the best, and some changed the menu up during the course of the event. If you attended the LA Street Food Fest or are one of the featured vendors, please forgive any omission here – there just isn’t enough space to cover everybody and all the food provided. We might as well begin with names you’re familiar with from previous Trippy Food articles; the omnipresent Alex Chu manned not one booth but two, providing tidbits from his Dim Sum Truck as well as items from his newly launched Dumplings Deluxe truck, including the wildly popular cheeseburger dumplings (an odd co-mingling of cultures in a little dough wrapper). Chu used the event as the coming-out party for his newest Dim Sum Truck offering, Vegan Sticky Rice, which although tasty made me long for the missing meat. Also manning (in a manner of speaking) two booths, Gueleguetza’s Bricia Lopez presented pork cemita “sliders” topped with onions, Oaxacan cheese, avocado and a spicy chipotle sauce from her Huntington Park restaurant, Pal Cabron, as well as nieves (Mexican ice cream) from the new Naturabar featuring such exotic flavors as cactus pear and leche quemada (burnt milk). A photo opportunity wall with cutouts to allow your face to grace a cartoon hottie outside the Pal Cabron booth got liberal use from patrons waiting in the long line.

Bill "Smokin Willie" Kelley offers a pulled pork slider

Bill "Smokin Willie" Kelley offers a pulled pork slider

Brazilian upstarts Ta Bom dished out slightly smaller versions of their signature coxina that were cooked to perfection and every bit as good as my first. I had the opportunity to try the pastel, which I didn’t sample on my initial visit to the truck; although these flat, crispy treats are usually accompanied by meat or sweet topping, the vinaigrette I topped it with added flavor without overpowering the simple delight. Ta Bom’s booth was lavishly decorated and featured a scantily clad woman decked out for Carnival, but the line was backing up for the food rather than the scenery. The long queue for The Grilled Cheese Truck was obvious, since their booth was perched on the second tier of the stadium – owners Dave Danhi and Michele Grant spent the first part of the day at a similar festival in Long Beach and then hauled ass across town to serve their signature sandwich brimming with pork, macaroni and cheese at the LA Street Food Fest (reminiscent of Phil Collins doing both the Wembley and JFK shows at Live Aid). Bill “Smokin’ Willie” Kelley received a call only a week before the event inviting him to participate, but he delivered with a pulled pork slider that was every bit as mouth-watering as when he first launched. I asked him if hitting the streets had prompted him to alter his menu, but he has only changed a couple of items including adding his hot link slider with grilled onions to the regular menu. He asked if I wanted coleslaw on the sandwich, which made it taste like the Alibi Room’s pork and kimchi slider’s American cousin; a few French fries and I would have had a mini-Primanti Brothers snack, but the sandwich didn’t make it to either the Frysmith or Fresh Fries booth intact.

Nguyen Tran had delicious balls

Nguyen Tran had delicious balls

In addition to the tried-and-true favorites, my street food horizon was broadened tenfold with the wide variety of new selections to the point where I had to decide what I was going to pass up. My first choice was obvious – Nguyen Tran stood outside his Starry Kitchen booth dressed as a banana and wearing a sign reading, “Please enjoy our balls in yo’ mouth.” The balls in question were crispy tofu balls, which admittedly don’t sound very exciting until you see them for the first time. The sphere is surrounded by a crispy neon green coating that makes it look as though it’s encrusted with kryptonite; a bite into them reveals a delicious, creamy tofu center. Tran received a specially created “Best Showmanship” award, a classic case of the presentation taking the attention away from what turned out to be a wonderful little dish, although receiving a tie vote for the People’s Choice Award later vindicated him. Not bad for a couple who started by serving food out of the back of their apartment! I lost my boba virginity to The Mighty Boba truck – their milk tea boba was cool and creamy, but I wasn’t prepared for the texture and the chewiness of the tapioca pearls, dyed a dark color with brown sugar. I chased the boba with one of their curry potato balls (a simple variation of the Cuban potato ball) with just enough curry for flavor. The sleeper had to be Dogzilla’s namesake offering; a high quality all-beef hot dog “slider” topped with avocado, crumbled bacon, onions, Japanese mayo and furikaki and lightly doused with teriyaki sauce. I had to wait briefly while they made up a batch of Yakisoba dogs, which features a hot link topped with noodles, okonami sauce, ginger and nori, and although there was considerable flavor, I wasn’t sure the spicy wiener complemented the toppings well. The server didn’t know if either of these were the equivalent of the elusive Japadog, having never heard about it; although the Yakisoba was decent, I would crawl naked over broken vinegar bottles to have another Dogzilla.

The lovely and sweet strawberry tamale from Tamales Elena

The lovely and sweet strawberry tamale from Tamales Elena

Best Old School winner Chef Robert Danhi offered a very simple, fresh mouthful dubbed the Explosive Thai Bite. The raw snack consisted of onions, ginger, tiny shrimp, chopped limes and several other ingredients wrapped in a single wild pepper leaf, which Chef Danhi instructed to eat all at once. Each bite released a different flavor and the crispiness of the raw, fresh ingredients only enhanced the experience. I’m no stranger to sweet tamales, but Tamales Elena knocked my socks off with their strawberry tamales. Instead of big chunks of strawberries embedded in the masa, the berries were blended in, giving the tamales a bright pink color and a sweet taste without being sugary. The Manila Machine offered up a pork belly and pineapple adobo over rice that was tender and flavorful and a decent lumpiang shanghai (a pork, carrot and ginger fried spring roll). I asked one of the proprietors about offering balut, to which he replied that he is considering an event but wants it to be traditionally respectful (as respectful as you can be while chowing down on a duck fetus). Scoops’ spin-off ice cream parlor, Scoops Westside hasn’t officially opened yet, but they still had a presence at the festival. With flavors such as pistachio cardamom, mango sweet orange basil seed and tamarind pear rum sorbet it was difficult to choose, but I finally opted for the cool and creamy Thai iced tea coconut.

The team from the Mighty Boba Truck

The team from the Mighty Boba Truck

I had volunteered with LA Street Food Fest to work at the event, so after a couple of hours getting my grub on I reported for duty to find out what my assignment was. I was somewhat surprised that I was given the task of taking pictures, but roamed about the stadium photographing everything and everyone. I walked past the long lines to the front so that I could capture images of the food in glorious Technicolor, and as a true journalist would ask about each particular food item. Unfortunately this resulted in me being offered more food, which I felt compelled to decline, not because I had elbowed my way to the front, but because there physically was no additional room in my digestive tract for anything else – I felt like Roberto Duran after a steak dinner. Winners were announced at the end of the night by one of the judges, L.A. Mayor Antonio Villaraigosa – other judges included Top Chef Master, Susan Feniger; LA Times Food Editor, Rene Lynch; Grey’s Anatomy actor Jesse Williams and Chef Walter Manzke. After a brief set by L.A.’s Warpaint, there was nothing left to do but disperse the crowd, as the Rose Bowl takes their schedules seriously. Nothing to see here, folks. Go back to your homes, and tell your kids this is what happens when you eat your way into a food coma.

The LA Street Food Festival
The Rose Bowl
1001 Rose Bowl Drive
Pasadena, CA 91103-2898
GPS coordinates: 34°9’36.35″N 118°10’3.02″W
Links to the vendor’s websites available at the LA Street Food Festival’s home page

See images of Val’s visit to the 2010 LA Street Food Festival

See more images from the 2010 LA Street Food Festival

Still more images from the 2020 LA Street Food Festival

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Crying All The Way To The Bank

The Liberace Museum

Las Vegas, Nevada

The wacky and surrealistic Liberace Museum in Las Vegas

The wacky and surrealistic Liberace Museum in Las Vegas

Las Vegas, Nevada is a monument to excess, a flamboyant, gaudy, over-the-top adult Disneyland. It is for this reason that the Liberace Museum is perfectly at home there, a palace in the desert built in honor of the Sultan of Kitsch himself. Unlike stars such as Elvis (Presley, not Costello), the Liberace Museum is not located in any of the homes he owned – his last house in Las Vegas is currently privately owned, and hopefully renovated to no longer resemble a fatal explosion resulting from a battle between Louis XIV and P. T. Barnum. It is about a mile and a half off The Strip, but if you don’t have transportation, you need not worry – a courtesy van lavishly emblazoned with Liberace’s image on it and “Free Shuttle to the Liberace Museum” plastered across the side will cheerfully pick you up at your hotel; dark sunglasses and a hat help to ease the embarrassment. As you pull up to the museum, any urge to ask the driver, “Are we there yet?” will be curtailed by the sight of the entrance in a building that was undoubtedly the joint effort of the famed architectural team of Salvador Dali and Dr. Seuss. Continue reading

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Paul Is Dead

Live octopus

Korea

The chef at Beverly Living Fish Center prepares our live octopus

The chef at Beverly Living Fish Center prepares our live octopus

Octopus Paul has been eerily accurate in predicting the World Cup winners; his cousins in fish tanks throughout Korea would do well to develop enhanced psychic abilities or they could end up segmented and writhing on a plate. Fortunately for Paul, he is too large to end up as sannakji hoe (a Korean dish involving the quick dismemberment of a small octopus with the severed tentacles delivered in a squirming mass to your table). Opponents of this type of cuisine argue that it is cruel to eat a live animal, but rest assured that Otto is very dead while his limbs are playing angry cobra on the plate. The octopus’ nervous system functions differently than in higher life forms – it is the same kind of reaction as an insect’s lost leg continuing to dance or that frog drowned in formaldehyde in biology class that starts kicking when he’s dissected. The hope is that the chef is talented and lighting fast at dispatching the octopus, but if you decide to try this unusual cuisine, you’re better off not knowing. Continue reading

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All We Are Saying Is Give Pizza Chance

Pizza

Italy and the world

The amazing pumpkin and prosciutto pizza at Lucifers

The amazing pumpkin and prosciutto pizza at Lucifers

Although we have a tendency to think of pizza as a modern fast food phenomenon, it has been with us for centuries (if not millennia). Although other ancient cultures have had some sort of pizza-like dish, it was the Romans (later Italians) that tossed the disk of dough into our hearts and the annals of culinary history. Perhaps you’re thinking that pizza isn’t particularly trippy, unless you’re driving 90 miles per hour in order to deliver it in under 30 minutes, but consider those who take the food of the commoner to a whole new level. There are far too many variations and novelty concoctions to mention in a single article, but I’ll highlight a few of them here briefly and then defer to the visual podcast that I and friend Eddie Lin of Deep End Dining made on a recent trip to Lucifer’s in Los Angeles. It’s up to you to find Geno’s East, The Original Ray’s, Santarpio’s or your friendly neighborhood House of Pizza on your own (but I’m always available to make suggestions). Continue reading

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