Rise of The Triad

Korean fusion: Kogi, The Alibi Room and Chego

Los Angeles, CA

Chubby Pork Belly and a side of kimchee

Chubby Pork Belly and a side of kimchee

It has slowly and insidiously crept its way into our culture; Angelenos had been content to enjoy the hard-fought-for, all-American tradition of chowing down on tacos al carbon and barbacoa burritos from the local taco truck until upstart Roy Choi decided to infiltrate our street food society and peddle his Korean fusion cuisine propaganda throughout L.A. County. I could be wrong about the all-American thing, but not only did Choi introduce the hungry denizens of L.A. to the kimchee taco, he single-handedly turned the food truck industry into a viral sensation. Not content to rely on word of mouth, Choi discovered the power of twitter and before long tweets were barreling through the ether letting the hungry mobs know where the Kogi truck was going next; how long was it going to be there; where the next destination was. Lines were hours long, and oh, how the word spread like chili paste. Choi soon had four trucks ranging all the way into Orange County, and soon BBQ, pancake, grilled cheese , Indian, dim sum, French fry and Brazilian street food trucks were taking to the streets like an epicurean plague. No disrespect to the other wonderful and quirky food trucks that have since warmed the cockles of our hearts and intestines, but Kogi was the flame that lit this Roman candle. Choi was preparing his food out of a small kitchen in Culver City that slowly evolved into a bar where you could enjoy the same cuisine served on the trucks without having to chase them down under the moniker of The Alibi Room. Not content to simply dominate the food truck scene and change the way we look at bar food, Choi opened a third venture – a small, friendly and kitschy Korean fusion restaurant where food is served in cardboard dishes from a pegboard menu called Chego. Over a year and a half after his first Kogi truck, Choi has gained national (if not international) notice for his empire, due in great part to his foresight in using the Internet to build his kingdom. Continue reading

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The Big Cheese, The Head Honcho…

Head cheese
Europe and the United States

Your basic head cheese feast

Your basic head cheese feast

Picture five pounds of Velveeta sculpted into a bust of Louis Pasteur. Can you see it? OK, that’s just wrong. If that’s what you imagine when you hear the term “head cheese” you’re way off base. I don’t blame you, though – the name is somewhat confusing. Let’s get one thing straight, right off the bat: there is no cheese in head cheese. Suffice it to saythat  the “head” part is slightly more accurate, but it’s doubtful that your marketing department would get very far with a product simply called “head”, unless you produce films in the San Fernando Valley. The head component of this dish is most commonly the head of a pig, but don’t expect to see Arnold Ziffel staring at you with his cold, dead eyes when you purchase this culinary oddity at your local butcher shop. I’ve wasted your valuable time with what head cheese isn’t, so out of fairness I’ll bring you up to speed with what it is. Head cheese is a meat product (usually pork) that is generally served cold and sliced as a luncheon meat. In addition to all the edible bits covering the pig’s skull (including ears, snout, and cheeks), it often contains pork tongue, trotters (pigs’ feet) and heart; normally the brain is removed. The pig’s head and accompanying body parts are spiced and cooked down to where all the meat can be easily removed, and then it is finely chopped and placed in a terrine, deep dish or pan along with the broth and chilled. The natural collagen in the bones and hide create a gelatin that solidifies the broth and holds all the tasty bits of skin, flesh and fat together in a translucent suspension that looks like the result of Jackson Pollock experimenting in sculpting. Finally, this block of exploded pork puddingstone is sliced and served with bread. Historically, it has been most popular in the UK (where it is known as “brawn”), gradually spreading in notoriety to the U.S., particularly on the east coast. Continue reading

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Up

Temecula, California

Temecula Valley Balloon and Wine Festival

Claudia and I wave from a tethered balloon

Claudia and I wave from a tethered balloon

Think of an annual festival where huge numbers of hot air balloons take to the skies and what comes to mind? OK, the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, sure, I get that. But what if you add in the celebration of wine to the mix? Well, since 1983, that’s exactly what’s been on the bill at the Temecula Valley Balloon and Wine Festival at Lake Skinner Park in Southern California. The festival has all the trappings you would expect from an outdoor festival – a variety of food, entertainment on multiple stages and rows of vendors selling crafts, wine and food – but the big draws are the balloons and wines representing the finest Temecula Valley wineries. To get the most out of the festival it is highly recommended that you get there early. Since the festival is held annually in June, the balloons take off early in the morning while the sky is still cool (the trick to getting them airborne is getting the air inside the balloon hotter than the air outside). When the air is too warm, the balloons have difficulty getting airborne. Don’t bypass the Temecula event simply because the New Mexico festival gets more press – I easily counted almost a hundred balloons, with most of them airborne at the same time.

One of the pilots explained that a balloon ride can be an exciting adventure, since the destination is up to Mother Nature. The only thing the pilot controls is the height of the balloon, and the air temperature can make that difficult as well. Each balloon has a chase vehicle that follows it to where it lands for transport back to the point of takeoff. The balloon rides aren’t cheap – they can run anywhere in the vicinity of $150 and up, but if you’re on a fixed budget, don’t despair, since several tethered balloons give free rides vertically about 50 to a hundred feet up and back. Simply watching how the balloons are filled and launched is amazing, and to see the sky filled with the brightly colored balloons is a sight to behold.

The morning sky filled with balloons

The morning sky filled with balloons

As the sun heats up, the focus shifts from the balloons to the wine and entertainment. While Napa Valley is a more renowned wine growing location, the Temecula Valley also has vineyards producing great wines, and a considerable number of them have a presence at the festival. There are tents where you can buy wine by the glass, by the bottle, purchase supplies and participate in wine tasting. Live music is performed on multiple stages throughout the course of the festival, with headliners such as Kenny Loggins, The Beach Boys and John Waite performing in addition to various artists covering a wide range of genres. Food is decent and relatively inexpensive, although you won’t find the trippy variety available at such food-centric festivals such as the Gilroy Garlic Festival and the Castroville Artichoke Festival. There’s a petting zoo where kids can handle pythons, hedgehogs and other odd critters, but after a couple of glasses of wine you might find yourself asking the curator to fry you up some of that cute little monkey. Be advised well in advance, they won’t do it.

Less dangerous than it looks

Less dangerous than it looks

The festival runs about three days, and at around $20 for a general admission ticket (depending on the day), you definitely get your money’s worth. There are also adjacent campgrounds for making a weekend of it. It’s easy to plan your day from the website, or you can just go early and leave it all up in the air.

Temecula Valley Balloon and Wine Festival
Lake Skinner Park
Winchester, California 92596
GPS coordinates: 33°35’21.53″N 117°2’21.00″W

GALLERY: See more images from the Temecula Valley Balloon and Wine Festival

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Even Artichokes Have Hearts

Annual Castroville Artichoke Festival

Castroville, California

Everything is bigger in Castroville

Everything is bigger in Castroville

The artichoke is a confusing vegetable; Curly Howard once threatened, “I’d like to meet the guy who invented this barbed-wire pineapple”. The Globe artichoke we’re familiar with in the U.S. is a native of northern Africa and southern Europe, and is actually the unopened bud of the Cynara cardunculus (a member of the thistle family). It is a heavily armored flower with thick, broad, scale-like petals ending in thorns; these guard the purple, fuzzy part of the flower that in its immature stage is referred aptly as the “choke” (describing what will result if you try to eat it). One can only imagine the brave soul who first assumed that they were edible, and then figured out how to eat it – it’s highly likely that he collaborated with the first person to eat a lobster. Artichokes have been known in popular culture for millennia; as the story goes, the Greek god Zeus seduced a young mortal maiden named Cynara and brought her back to his swinging pad in Mount Olympus. Living the life of a goddess didn’t appeal to her, so she left Mount Olympus, much to the displeasure of Zeus (who quickly and neatly turned her into the first artichoke, thus the vegetable’s scientific name). Cute story, to be sure, but with all this European folklore surrounding the armadillo of the vegetable world, how does a California town on the Central Coast come to be known as “The Artichoke Center of The World”?

An artichoke in the field

An artichoke in the field

Around the beginning of the last century, Italian immigrants in the San Francisco area were missing their beloved artichoke when they discovered that the climate caused by the meeting of the warm inland air and the cold waters created the perfect growing climate. Root stalks were imported from Italy and farmers on the peninsula began growing artichokes like crazy; however, when land development became a lucrative business in the Bay area, farmers began moving their crops to the south, settling in the undeveloped Castroville area in the early 1920s. The crop was wildly successful and to this day over 98 percent of the artichokes consumed in the U.S. come from the Castroville area. Mediterranean countries grow more artichokes, but Castroville gets to wear the crown because more artichokes are grown in this area than in any other single place in the world. By the 1940s, Castroville became so synonymous with artichokes that the idea of an annual festival became reality. In 1947, a young Norma Jean Baker (yes, THAT Norma Jean Baker) was crowned as the first Miss California Artichoke Queen and the tradition has been upheld ever since. Lately the contest bestows multiple crowns (political correctness has led to the monarchy being shared by a queen and a king); the contestants are local area students who are voted in based on achievement in local academic and community service. It does makes one wonder when a monarchy became an elected position, though.

Everything tastes better outdoors

Everything tastes better outdoors

The festival has everything you would expect from a vegetable shindig (much like neighbor Gilroy’s famous garlic festival) and more: live music, carnie rides, cooking demonstrations and a wide variety of artichoke-based county fair-style food. Along side your typical fare of hot dogs, funnel cakes, cotton candy, et al., artichokes are available in a dizzying variety of preparations that Buford “Bubba” Blue would be proud of: artichoke burritos, grilled artichoke, deep-fried artichoke, carne asada tacos with artichoke, artichoke pasta, artichoke crab cakes, bacon-wrapped artichokes, artichoke-stuffed portabella mushrooms, artichoke enchiladas, sautéed artichoke and artichoke cupcakes… I guess that’s about it. The petals of the grilled variety had a smoky flavor, but wasn’t a drastic departure from the traditional steaming preparation; the sautéed artichoke was mushy and looked like it should be served as a side dish. I opted for the Our Lady of Refuge Carne Asada Tacos with Artichoke; the meat was a little chewy, but the intense flavor of the chopped artichoke hearts brought the dish to life. Crisp, finely shredded lettuce and a nice, biting salsa made the taco forget it even had meat in it, which was fine by me. I returned to the artichoke cupcake tent later in the day for dessert, only to discover in horror that they had sold out. There wasn’t even a consolation of artichoke ice cream to fall back on. We’ll return to the black market procurement of said cupcake in a bit.

2 dollars? What a bargain!

2 dollars? What a bargain!

The festival featured an AGROart contest in which the artists worked with artichokes and other vegetables akin to Spamarama’s SPAM sculpture contest. Most sculptors went with an animal theme (fish, pelicans, and a cleverly designed rattlesnake with an onion head and ear of corn for a rattle), although one adventurous participant opted to try to recreate Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland in vegetables. A nearby information booth sold posters, souvenirs and tickets for a tour of the artichoke fields (an opportunity I immediately seized). The tour boarded a white field labor bus (which I’m sure would have been pulled over in Arizona as “suspicious”) and headed out to two fields where annual and perennial varieties are grown. On the way, I received a call from friend David Lee (who I met at President Obama’s inauguration and now resides in the area) and agreed to meet up with him after the tour (the significance of this meeting to the artichoke cupcake espionage will become clear shortly). Pat Hopper of the California Artichoke Advisory Board conducted the tour, which started in a huge tract of land where the annual variety is grown. It was explained that what is marketed as “baby” artichokes are simply the smaller ones, which grow towards the bottom of the plant; the larger ones are at the top and the artichokes are sorted, packed and numbered by the amount that will fit in a single crate. At the second stop (where the perennials are grown), Pat explained how the aquifers are becoming brackish as the seawater replaces the fresh water being removed for the farms; using “reclaimed water” is reducing this. Although the recycled water is safe to drink, Pat stated that you probably wouldn’t want to. She showed the tour group how the artichokes are harvested (which must be done by hand since it is a visual process); the worker skillfully and one-handedly cuts the artichoke about 2 inches from the stem and deftly tosses it in their backpack (called a canasta) in a single move. A “baby” was harvested, and then thinly sliced from the bottom for anyone interested to taste the raw vegetable (which was slightly but not offensively bitter).

The mush called "sauteed artichoke"

The mush called "sauteed artichoke"

In the words of Dennis Moore, “This is a blog article, not a bloody botany lesson”, so let’s take the bus back to the festival and pick up where we left off with the tale of the cupcake. We met up with David and spent some time enjoying the rest of the festivities; the contestants vying for the title of California Artichoke Queen and King touted their resumes at the microphone, groups presented ethnic dances and song, and one street was lined with a corridor of classic cars, tricked-out rides and low riders. When I mentioned to David that I missed the opportunity to try the cupcakes prior to them selling out, he told me that he had eaten one and found it to be similar in taste to carrot cake. After a few hours we parted company, and my wife Claudia and I moved towards the exit. Before we got to the gate, we ran into David again, who had found some of his coworkers and friends and told us to go with him as he had something special for us. We went to the parking area to where his friend Shannon had parked and a door was surreptitiously opened to reveal a gleaming plastic container neatly holding a half dozen of the cupcakes. She told us that she had purchased the last six, and felt all eyes upon her as she made her way to the parking lot. We were presented with a cupcake, which we thought might require the services of an armed escort to get to our car in another lot. In fact, the people at the ticket booth saw us and yelled, “Look! They have a cupcake!”. David’s assessment of the taste was pretty accurate; it also bore some similarity to zucchini bread. It was neither overly sweet nor bitter, and was a welcome finish to a day partaking in all things artichoke.

There are other artichoke-themed things to do and eat in Castroville that can be enjoyed all year round, but that’s a story for another article. Artichokes are delicious, nutritious, fat and sodium-free, and low calorie (although slightly expensive), but if you have an opportunity to try Curly’s “feathered apple”, be sure to treat yourself to one. Just tell yourself (as the 2010 slogan goes), “Thistle be fun”!

The Annual Castroville Artichoke Festival
Downtown Castroville, CA (around Preston and McDougall Streets)
GPS Coordinates: 36°45’59.87″N 121°45’26.81″W

Ocean Mist Farms (artichoke growers and sponsors of the festival)

GALLERY: See images of Val’s visit to the 2010 Castroville Artichoke Festival

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Hunting High and Low

Liverpool, UK

Radio City Tower, The Williamson Tunnels

Radio City Tower rising above Williamson Square

Radio City Tower rising above Williamson Square

While Liverpool’s main draw from a tourist standpoint is that The Beatles lived there, there is a wide variety on non-Fab Four things to see and do there. The best way to truly see and appreciate Liverpool is from above and below. From above, there’s no better vantage point than Radio City Tower. Originally called St. John’s Beacon, it was designed as a ventilation shaft for St. John’s Market and completed in 1969 (presumably John Lennon should have been able to see it from his house). Similar to structures such as Toronto’s CN Tower, The Space Needle in Seattle, Reunion Tower in Dallas and San Antonio’s Tower of the Americas, the tower featured a revolving restaurant and an outdoor observation deck. Eventually these were closed, and the platform at the top was occupied by Radio City 96.7. The tower had closed for renovation but was recently reopened for tours on weekends. It had been the tallest structure in Liverpool until being replaced by West Tower in 2008. West Tower features the Panoramic restaurant on the 34th floor with a commanding view, but be forewarned that dinner will probably run you the equivalent of front row tickets to a Paul McCartney concert, whereas Radio City Tower will only set you back about £6.25. Continue reading

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